Under the Wave

My first surfboard had a Playboy center fold entombed beneath the polyurethane. Actually it was a rented board and was usually waiting for me at the surf shop (was it too embarrassing for earlier renters?) Growing up in San Diego, beach life was almost a twelve month pleasure and I eventually talked my Dad into fronting me the money for my own custom board: 9 foot 2 with green rails from Gordon & Smith. This may seem gargantuan but my first exposure to surfing was at Doheny Beach in the mid ’50s and the board was made of redwood and probably half-again as long.

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